American Marble


1. Vanity tops are made to order. It is important to provide accurate measurements to assure that the top is made correctly. See worksheet for guidelines.

2. Vanity tops are made oversized to allow for shrinkage and may have to be cut to fit on the job site.

3. Custom shaped tops will have some irregularities and imperfections because they are custom crafted.

4. If the walls are not square, the top must be cut to fit on the job. Use a masonry blade in a skill saw. Cutting marble produces a harmless white powder and it is advisable to cut outside or another suitable location.

5. If the back wall is not straight, the sheet rock may be cut to get a snug fit. If the irregularity is slight, the gap can be filled with silicone.

6. To install the vanity top, rest one edge on end of the cabinet while keeping the other end at 45 degrees over the cabinet. Slowly, lower the other end into place.

7. It is not necessary to glue the top of the cabinet. The weight of the top and the plumbing will keep it secure. If you feel it must be secured, we suggest silicone only in the corners.

8. To silicone the back and the side splashes, follow the instruction sheet called "Steps To Silicone Top".

9. For vanity tops over 24" deep or for splashes higher than 4" high, separate splashes are necessary.

10. Do not touch silicone for 24 hours to avoid fingerprints or smearing. Also, avoid dust around wet silicone.

11. Banjo tops require support for the arm extension. This can be achieved by a cleat or spine along the wall level with the cabinet. A 1 x 1 may also be used.

12. Undermount bowls are secured with bowl clips and silicone. The bowl should be mounted and allowed to dry for 24 hours before setting the top. If the faucet holes are in the bowl, you may want to set the plumbing first. Onyx tops with undermount bowls require special mounting.

13. Faucet holes are drilled to 1 1/8". If a larger diameter is needed, use a rat-tail file to enlarge hole.

14. Be sure that the top lays flat and that there are no obstructions such as a nail, chip of wood or too small an opening for the bowl to fit in.

15. Use plumbers putty on the top and bottom of drain to avoid leaks. Do not overtighten drain. This can cause the bowl to crack.

16. If the top is scratched or burned, the top can be restored by using 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper using water and a small sanding block. Avoid oversanding which will remove the Gel Coat. Follow with a good polish. We recommend Gel Gloss cleaner and polish. See instruction sheet "Care, Cleaning and Repair of Cultured Marble Products".


1. Area should be clean and dry.

2. Use square to determine how straight the walls are. Take measurements at the back, middle and front to determine how square the walls are. Often, the top must be trimmed because the walls are out of plumb.

3. If the top is to go against a side wall, the top may have to be trimmed to fit. Use a masonry type blade in a skill saw. Cut outside to avoid dust from spreading.

4. Set top in place and check fit. Gluing is not necessary, the weight of the top and plumbing will keep the top from moving.

5. Apply three golf ball size globs of silicone to the back side of the splash and set in place.

6. Practice steps 7 through 10 before attempting on a top

7. Using a caulking gun, apply a thin bead of silicone into the groove at the top, bottom and sides of splashes. Use a high grade, mildew resistant, white silicone. GE and Dow make quality silicone products.

8. Spray area surrounding silicone with denatured alcohol in a spray bottle to prevent smearing.

9. Spread evenly your finger.

10. Clean excess with paper towels.

11. Let silicone dry for 24 hours. Do not touch or get wet while drying.

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Serving the entire San Francisco Bay Area Since 1970

4881 Sunrise Dr, Suite A
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Phone: 800-801-2284
Fax: 925-370-0477

Hours: Monday thru Friday - 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Saturday by appointment only.